Leopard Gecko is a gecko with low activity and very easy care, which is perfect for both beginner and more experienced. By their very nature, these geckos are often curious, calm and easily tamed, which is why they are one of the most popular types of gecko as a pet. Even though the Leos are dusky, they can often be seen awake during the day and especially in the early evening they can be seen exploring their surroundings. Leopard gecko does not have gripping plates on their toes, but they are still surprisingly good climbers. With their small claws, they can climb even on a vertical, rough background without any problems.
The species is not very large even for an adult (with the exception of Giant and Super Giant variants). An adult Gekko is usually about 20-25cm tall and weighs about 50-80g, but for large individuals and dogs, 100 grams is not impossible. Leopard gecko has some form of color, but the most common color is called “normal”: yellowish with black spots. Leopard gecko are long-lived and live well in good care for 15-20 years.
Terrarium & Furnishings
One adult leopard gecko needs at least a 80cm x 40cm terrarium, but the bigger the better. In a larger terrarium, it is also easier to arrange temperature fluctuations. Two need at least 100cm x 40cm. Although many leopard gecko can be inhabited together, never put two dogs in the same terrarium – they are very territory conscious and often fight to the death. Even if this does not always happen, it is unnecessary to risk the animal’s health or life. However, leopard gecko does not need a friend, and lone gecko does not need to have a friend just for company.
Leopard gecko do not need much height to their terrarium, 35-40cm is enough. Even though they don’t need height, leopard gecko loves to climb. They do not have suction cups, but enjoy climbing on different branches of wood or plastic plants. If the terrarium has a styrofoam background (or other rough background), the leopard gecko will be happy to climb it. In this case, it is good to have a roofed terrarium to avoid escaping.
- Self-built terrarium tower, 4 terrariums each 100 x 50 cm.
- There are two female gecko in the terrarium of the picture. The base material is a terrarium mat and heating with a mat.
- Warm end with two hiding places and wetbox, cool end with water cup and bigger hide. In addition, there is a lime cup as well as decorative elements that also serve as a hiding place. Now you can also look for the best light for leopard gecko.
Heat & light
Leopard gecko needs a warm-up area of about 34-38 degrees Celsius. The terrarium must also have a cooler side where the temperature is the same as room temperature. The easiest way to create these is to place the warm-up at the other end of the terrarium. Leopard gecko need heat for digestion and make the best use of the heat from the bottom, which is the best option. The heating mat should cover 1/3 of the terrarium. It is positioned so that Gekko does not come into direct contact with the carpet. It is also good to have the thermostat with the carpet so that the heat does not get too hot with the high performance carpet.
However, it is not always enough to have a heating mat so you can buy a low-power heat lamp. When using a heat lamp alone, you can put a flat and dark slate under it, for example, to collect the heat on which Gekko can lay. Please note that the stone will not overheat and thus burn the lizard!
It is a good idea to place a digital thermometer at the warm end to measure the temperature of the bottom, to keep track of the temperatures as closely as possible. The meter sensor is placed at the warmest point on the bottom. An infrared thermometer is also a good option for monitoring temperatures.
- The lights and heat are kept on for 10 to 12 hours, and the rhythm is easiest to achieve with a timer.
- The leopard gecko does not need UV light at all, as long as he takes care of vitamin D with food. However, the use of UV light is no harm to the color forms of albino.
- Albinos are really photosensitive and see even worse than normal in light, and for these color shapes I recommend only terrain to light at most. It is also good to position the terrarium so that it is not disturbed by light from outside. Albinos may not refuse to eat like in really low light because they do not see prey.
Terrariums, plastic mats, stone tiles or kitchen towels can be used as the base material for terrariums. Do not use sand or similar (wood chips, etc.) in the terrarium which Gekko may accidentally or intentionally swallow. It can cause intestinal obstruction and, in the worst case, lead to death of the animal. It is never a good idea to take that risk, it is better to root out the dangers from the beginning rather than afterwards.
Kitchen paper is the easiest base material. A terrestrial mat is often very expensive and gecko claws can get stuck on these. The tiles and the carpet are easy to keep tidy and can be obtained quite easily from hardware stores. They also come in any look and color, giving you the terrain you want. Only kitchen paper is used for the little chick.
Furnishings include various rocks, tree branches or rhizomes, flower pots, reptile caves and hiding places, cottages and artificial plants. In addition, you will need at least a water cup, a lime cup and a wetbox. The terrarium must have at least two conceals for each lizard, evenly spaced on each end of the terrarium. Leopard geckos need a chance to hide completely and often spend days hiding.
Terrariums should be decorated with sharp edges and sturdy interiors. It is important that Gekko does not accidentally hurt himself. As I mentioned earlier, leopard gecko loves climbing and shabby interior elements can fall and Gekko can hurt himself.
You can build a Wetbox yourself, for example from a butter can or plastic box, or you can buy one at a pet shop. A suitable wetbox has a hole for the lizard to go through and contains, for example, damp kitchen towels or un-fertilized peat (chick only kitchen towels). It is a good idea to keep your Wetbox moist constantly as it helps the lizard to create skin. However, many lizards enjoy the humid box anyway. It is a good idea to place the Wetbox on the warm end of the terrarium, if you wish you can put more boxes in the terrarium so that you can place them on different sides.
Treatment of Leopard Gecko
When Gekko arrives, it’s good to let him get used to his new surroundings. Especially for a youngster, a new, possibly bigger, terrarium can be a very stressful situation. Place the Gekko with its transport sled in the terrarium and allow the animal to come out in peace for its own time. Some lizards may not dare to explore their new environment right away, but may hide for days. It is good for the Gekon to be allowed to settle in without undue disturbance. It is common for food to not taste gecko immediately. So wait in peace if the animal does not immediately start eating. A very stressed individual may be up to four weeks without eating. You can try to serve food the next day, but don’t worry if Gekko doesn’t eat.